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Part 2

Celica GT4 turbo seats - like my old recaro's, but $295 a pair from Ichiban in Sydney. Internal seat base adjusts up and down.

Stripped the jag rear - it's under car - starting to look at fitting - looks like I may have to cut some of the floor and tank to fit it high enough to get the car low.

The last shot shows the rear sitting in - made some adjustable supports that line it up through the shock mounts to the front spring hangers - lines up the whole diff to hold it to install.

My good mate Julius helped out for the day - makes it a bit easier - we still nearly got squashed when the diff tipped forward of the jack!

 

 

Rule (shows 9 inches) - shows size to edge of 17 inch rim (9 inches from centre). Jag diff closeup.

 

Cut the floor out - you can see why Jag rears normally sit too high in an Eh/Fj - needs the room.

Shock sitting in place - worried about the support beam location - the shock in the left shot is under the beam - arse up in the air.

 

You can see clearance - or lack of here - the disc is cutting through the lip that did support tank. I'm not worried - want more boot space and will make a new drop tank.

I realised that I can move the bar to the centre of the diff, lift it so it is just under the boot floor, and get the arse in the weeds. So - got game - out came the 7 inch cutoff - out came the floor - (after some lines of course).

Now the shock has room to sit properly and an increase in leverage (may have to soften them later) as I think the eh is about 500kg lighter than a fat arse 1800kg jag.

knock off time after 5 hours of stuffing around! Learn't from the FJ... think.., measure, think..........think again ........ measure think again ........
then cut!

Generally works!!!!

Note the good angle of the axles - nice and straight - the bottom arm points below horizontal slightly - as it does in a normal jag. Shocks are roughly in final position.

Managed to get about 6 hours work on my car this weekend (in fact all week!). You can see the jag rear is mounted (top part anyway!).The bar bolts in at each end at the moment but will be welded in down the track when all the wheels have been setup - at the moment I can remove the bar to work around it, cleanup metal, weld, etc.
You can see the solid orange 'shocks' - had to stick the bum in the air to clear the wheels so I can roll it around. Nice to have the car on the ground again. The final planned ride height is level with the top of the visible rim (about 4 inches lower - 6 inch final ride height with car level. To do this the guards need pumping - and I just don't want bolt/weld on flares - I want to pump all of the guard - keep the car fat, low and sleeper. Thinking about playing with a stuffed body and slicing the upper guard, removing the inner guard and adding a 2 inch strip to step the guard and door corner out - we'll see!

 

Okay - big change - the wagon went to the crusher - after I removed my bits! That's the firewall - all that's left! I was given a Premier sedan - a touch of rust in windscreen areas - very good floors etc. Sent it straight to the sandblasters to have it cleaned and primed - start work in January (when not working on the house, going to summernats etc)!!!!

 

 

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(In the usual spirit of the Internet, even though I have used some of this material without permission, I try to acknowledge the original source where possible, in the hope that this will not offend the copyright owners. Sometimes, it is lucky I did, as a number of sites have disappeared shortly after I copied the information. Please acknowledge the source if you copy it. I stand to make no profit from these pages and have published them purely out of my enthusiasm for the cars. If this is unacceptable to any of the copyright holders, I will gladly remove, rewrite or replace the pictures or information. The comments on this page are mostly the authors - they are not those of the FX-FJ Car Club of Canberra inc or any other person - unless stated.)