First LS1 shots - the start of stage 2! This is the LS1 statesman
I bought - a writeoff!
Engine on ground! |
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LS1 sitting in place as a trial fit.
Caprice back seat - 30mm wider than EH? I thought it would be heaps more - looks like it might get trimmed to fit! |
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| The next shot is the LS1 trial fitted - check all the extra space
compared to the 1UZ I had installed with turbos on the right!
Sold on ebay, aimimg for same power output without turbos!
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LS1 5.7 litre
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1UZ 4 litre plus two snails |
This is a shot of the GM performance sump I bought
from the USA. It looks like I can get away without modifying the
sump - or buying a $900 aftermarket one made by CRS that is thin
in the bottom! Fits like I hoped, and I just have to weld a tab
on the starter motor side if I want to have all the bolts in (has
7 fitted) - the US 4L60e auto must be a little different in the
bellhousing. Makes sense, their starter is on the left! Its called
an 'LS Series Muscle Car Oil Pan Kit 19212593' - US$134 from here
at www.crateenginedepot.com,
cost me AU$350 landed at my house. You can buy and ship direct
or use www.priceusa.com.au.
A top kit, includes windage plate, new bolts, gasket, and even
the dipstick! The passenger side of the LS1 has a little dip stick
hole with a welsh plug you knock out from undernreath and the
new dispstick fits in! The oil filter is the LS3 one with a 22mm
fitting. I'll end up modifying my original dipstick so it's out
of the way and lets me have some nice covers.
LS1/LS2 Oil Filter: 92142006, AC Delco PF46, Coopers Z15a, Mann
Hummel w940/1, Mobil M1107
LS3 Oil Filter: 89017524 AC Delco PF48, K&N 1017
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How does it fit? Check the pic - great! No modifying the sump
and the rear rack will ft! This sump is the smallest of all rear
sumps - lot's lof others but save the hastle of modifying one
and get this one. Cheaper than ebay truck sumps and comes complete!
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This is a good
article about correctly installing a GM sump. |
1. Truck sump
2. Some other US factory sumps
For more info on all the sump options - go
here.
Interestingly enough, my smaller motorsport sump was not listed
or commonly known - it took some finding! I nearly bought the
truck sump to cut down. |
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VT Commodore manual - Holden_LS1-
Holden Service Training GEN III V8 Engine Management
For more useful links for LS1's visit my link
page on the menu.
Rough engine mount - reused the 1UZ and welded 6mm plate to them.
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Extractors
This week I've been busy making my extractors. You can buy through
the guaurd extractors for the old style chev with siamesed ports,
haven't seen any for an LS1. I rang a couple of exhaust shops,
after silly quotes ($1500 a side) I decided to make my own. Rang
dumperking (http://dkne.com.au/)
and ordered some 4 into 1 merges, 3 bolt flanges and a couple
of madrel bends (only ended up using 2).
I then proceeded to cut up the extractors that came with the
stato as they weren't that old. I could have made then from scratch
but I had this set of bends that I just needed to chop up and
reweld a bit.........
I could have gone inside the chassis rails with alot of work,
however it's much easier through the gaurds with a rear rack,
looks tougher and steers better (than a front rack - which scrubs
tyres badly and has a poor turning circle). |
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These are pics of the process. Some had to be extended or cut
into smaller bits and rewelded. I managed to reshape the rear
drivers side so I was able to remove the extractors with the motor
and brake lines in place, a good effort I thought! Had to open
the guard hole a bit more than shown in this shot but, that's
life!
I used the die grinder to clean up the welds inside as I did
each one. Make sure you weld your pipes to the flange on a large
flat lump of steel after tacking them on the motor (I used an
old peice of steel beam).
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I cut a small piece of plate to fill the gap between the four
pipes, the welded them together. Only when you are sure you have
no leaks, weld the merge in place. Test for leaks before you start
welding the 4 way merge to the pipes. Initially I slapped duct
tape over the merge and filled it with water. This showed the
leaks but hard to determine exactly where they were. Then I decided
to use a my oxy leak tester, a spray bottle with water and detergent.
As soon as I hit the joints from the back with compressed air,
bubbles appeared right at the leaks! You can just see the bubbles
inside, luckily I could still weld in there as the extractors
are short.
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| How do you draw a circle around a pipe, use a hose clamp. Even
allows you to angle it if you need too. |
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| The finished pipe. You can see how I reshaped the 2.5" mandrel
exhaust I previously made for the 1uz turbo setup, now it hugs the
chassis/guards a lot tighter. I'll get it and the extraxtors heat
proffed again to stop paint blistering etc and it improves power.
The far shot shows the old pipe cutoff before I started, also shows
my engine mount, tack welded in place. |
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Steering and
sump - page 15
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